TrueTrac Pro-Series 8' Combo Kit
- One (1) 57 inch track
- One (1) 48 inch track
- Two (2) 57 inch length anti-chip strips, installed on track
- Two (2) 48 inch length anti-chip strips, installed on track
- One (1) Universal Saw Adapter Plate
- One (1) Hardware packet (6 bolts, 6 nuts, L-shaped hex wrench)
- One (1) Setup Jig
- Two (2) dovetail connectors, with setscrews installed
- One (1) Zero Clearance Block
- Hard copy of installation instructions
We also offer a Pro-Series 12' Track Saw Kit.
Have been intrigued by track saws for a long time, but was always put off by the high price of systems like the Festool.
Building a new shop, and will be covering the walls with OSB, so decided to give it a go.
Purchased the 8' track kit, carry bag and toggle clamps. Installation of the saw base was very straightforward. Note: I had purchased a new cordless Dewalt saw when I ordered the track kit, but realized the smaller saw base would be a lot of trouble to get properly mounted (reinforcing pieces on magnesium saw base are too tightly spaced) when it came time to install it. Switched to a more traditional corded Dewalt saw with a flat aluminum base (highly recommended). Alignment jig was very helpful.
The printed manual is excellent ... very clear text and wonderful COLOR pictures. This, plus one of the helpful YouTube videos, made trimming the anti-chip strips simple.
The carry bag is very high quality ... highly recommended!
My first use was crosscutting OSB helping my son ... worked perfectly. Had not used a track saw before ... still amazed at how "grippy" the anti-chip strips are. Have not had an occasion to rip panels, but that will be coming up in the next couple of weeks. Purchased the toggle clamps figuring they would be helpful.
Can't believe how much time I saved over marking, calculating the saw base to blade offset, and clamping a straight edge. Also, the track saw makes it darn near impossible to screw up ... have clamped the straight edge on the wrong side more times than I would like to admit!
If you do any amount of breaking down panels, this is a no brainer.
It took me about an hour to set it up. I drilled the plate mounting holes from the bottom ,plate, side, seemed easier to me. I countersunk the mounting screws in the plate. I checked the plate to blade with the included jig and a small flashlight after every drill and screw. I broke down a full sheet of plywood and checked every cut with a Starrett tape measure and a framing square and everyone was perfect. I don't do much sheet goods, mostly hardwood, but this thing is excellent at sheet goods. I just lay the sheet on an old piece of 3/8 inch, support the overhang, make one small mark on each side of the sheet, set the track on the sheet on the marks, set the saw on the track and saw. I keep my left hand on the left side of the track just to know if the track shifts, it never does. I set the blade 1/16 lower than the thickness of the sheet. i think what amazes me is you just lay the sheet down and cut it, no fence no miter gauge, just a tape measure and pencil. 8 pieces all told.
two issues: one is if I measure away from me (like for a rip cut), make lines, lay the track on the line, the actual cut is 1/16 LESS than measured. I followed the calibration steps carefully. Any ideas? Secondly, I have to raise the saw slightly each time as I engage the track.
The piece that you measure and care about needs to be the piece that is under the physical track, otherwise you’re not accounting for the thickness of your blade. Most thin kerf blades are around 1/16” or slightly thicker.
Usually you have to raise the saw guard to engage the adapter plate onto the track itself unless you’re feeding directly in from the end.
If you are feeding in from the end of the track most likely it’s the zero clearance block bumping into the work piece. Another possibility would be that the rear of the saw is dropping down slightly before it’s fully engaged on the track, causing the little flat spot on the track itself, above the T-slot that the white anti-chip rides in, to snag on the back edge of the large rectangular opening the blade and guard drop down through on the adapter plate itself.
If the hang-up during in-feed happens towards the front of the plate, it’s the ZCB. If it’s towards the rear, it’s the back edge of the opening catching the track. For the rear catching, simply pull the track further towards the start of the cut so the plate can fully engage on the track.
Try those things out and get back to me, either as a reply here or direct to email@example.com and we can go from there.
The little bit that I have used the trutrac it is awesome, haven't used the dado set up yet but it seems just as high quality. The expandable table is also very convenient.
My first project after purchasing the Pro-Series 8’ was ripping three sheets of plywood. Lots of full length cuts and crosscuts. All were spot on - something I could not accomplish with just a straight edge. When I was researching the saw online I saw a number of comments regarding the price. I figure the money I save on mis-cuts will cover the cost over time. Also glad to support small businesses in the US.